Friday, November 14, 2008

The Start of a Culinary Journey through South Africa

Day 1

They say that life’s not about how many moments you breathe. But how many moments take your breath away. As I watched the sun set over Johannesburg’s lush forested skyline, I had no idea how many breathtaking moments I’d experience – over the next ten days – as the blogger on a whirlwind tour of some of South Africa’s most exceptional locations. But let’s start at the beginning. It was on a balmy Saturday evening at Johannesburg’s Westcliff Hotel, at the invitation of South African Tourism, that I happened to find myself in the company of a small group of impressive individuals that included world-renowned style expert, Colin Cowie. Colin, born in Zambia and raised in the Eastern Cape, has spent his recent years in the enviable job of glamour guru to the world and event planner to the stars (Oprah, to name-drop), traveling to the world’s most luxurious locations and receiving nothing less than 6 star treatment 24 hours a day. As our first location, The Westcliff made the ideal setting for South Africa to show her stuff, or maybe just enough of a hint. A little piece of heaven right in the middle of Jo’burg’s northern suburbs, this grand hotel sits high on a rocky outcrop, giving its visitors a breathtaking view, with the soundtrack of the odd lion’s roar rising on the air from the zoo gardens in the suburb below. As we sipped cocktails next to the sparkling infinity pool, and feasted on oysters and ostrich bobotie (made by Executive Chef, Sven Niederbremer to the exacting standards of one of our travel compatriots – none other than The Restaurant’s Rocco DiSpirito), Colin regaled stories of his life and travels. South Africa had a lot to live up to. And I’m sure Colin would agree, we gave the world's best a good run for its money. And experienced an incredible journey that any traveler would give their right arm to experience.

Day 2

Our next destination was to be the ultra-luxurious and oh-so-very exclusive game lodge, Molori, situated in Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa’s North West Province near the Botswana border. After a leisurely Sunday start, we boarded a Federal Air chartered flight that would take us, in under one hour, to a unique location of such blissful escape it seemed like a million miles away. Leaving the bustling metropolis of Johannesburg, we flew over the lazy Magalies mountain range, one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world...

then over the glinting Lost City Palace, and, like a scene out of a movie, our small aircraft landed with a puff of dust on a dry strip of land, literally in the middle of nowhere. Who would have thought that in this place, which winter had left sparse before the spring rains, our every need would be met before it could even be thought of. Having been collected in true safari style on an open-topped vehicle, we were escorted to the lodge by our game ranger and host Greg (more about him later). I am not often left at a loss for words – I am a writer after all. But Molori left me speechless. Also, stressless, anxiety-less, calorie-conscious-less and in a total state of bliss. I’d say “picture this” if you could. But to truly experience what Molori is like, you just have to go there yourself. After all, where else in the world does your room have foldaway glass walls that open onto a wooden deck with your own private pool, outside shower, and a stack of towels that could dry an elephant should one choose to wander in for a splash? Where else is your home made from a fusion of natural and modern materials that seamlessly blend into their surroundings? Where else are you always greeted by the kind of attention to detail that makes you understand what the word 'luxury' actually means. Like the consistent appearance of gastronomically delightful snacks in your room. Or an 'emergency' bathroom kit that makes you wish you had actually left your toiletry bag at home. After a spectacular lunch overlooking the plains, we departed on our afternoon game drive, and had the privilege of being the only nine human beings for miles, leisurely drinking in the African landscape and its resident impala, warthog and rhino. Of course, this being Molori, we also got to drink in sundowners presented on an elegantly linen-decked table in a clearing on the dusty roadside. Only in South Africa. As we stood and chatted, the different accents of our world’s travelers mingling in the air, the warm sun dipped against the horizon, and within a few heartbeats it become oil dark and the stars faded into a ceiling of dancing lights, as though they had been planned, orchestrated and sublimely executed. Not even Colin Cowie could have done better.

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